White by the Glass
Producer: Meyer-Fonné
Cuvée: ‘Réserve’
Grape: Riesling (dry)
Region: Alsace
Vintage: 2018
Félix Meyer is a rising star in Alsace and has an evident instinct for his craft. Since taking over the family domaine in 1992, Félix has already left his own mark, modernizing equipment in the winery, developing export sales, and now expanding the family’s holdings in many of Alsace’s great vineyard sites, including several grand crus.
The winery and family home is in the village of Katzenthal, known for its distinctive granite soils. Racy and elegant, his wines are difficult to resist young but have all the right qualities for the cellar.
In the bottle: 100% Riesling from a mixture of vines both old and young (oldest 1969, youngest 2006) from just 0.8 hectares. This in addition to a mixture of Grand Cru Rieslings. All grown on a diverse mixture of soils - gray marl, granitic colluvium, alluvium, and limestone.
Notes: This wine is *bone dry* and complex - everything we love in a Riesling. Notes of wet pebbles, lime zest, tropical fruits, passionfruit curd. A nice pairing with chèvre, betteraves, escargots.
Glass $17, Bottle $75
Producer: Valery Renaudat
Cuvée: ‘Les Lignis’
Grape: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Loire
Appellation: Reuilly
Vintage: 2022
Though not as well known these days as certain other winegrowing areas of the central Loire Valley, Reuilly is home to some fantastic vineyard sites, beautifully sloped for optimal sun exposure.
A native to the region, though not from a winegrowing family, Valéry Renaudat began with two hectares in Reuilly in 1999. He has since expanded his vineyard holdings to 18 hectares in both the Reuilly and Quincy AOC areas and is now considered one of the most talented winemakers in his subregion.
In the bottle: This wine comes from multiple parcels of Sauvignon Blanc in the lieux-dit, Les Lignis, where the soils are clay-limestone over calcareous marl, full of Jurassic ammonite fossils. Sustainably grown.
Notes: Smooth and balanced, with waves of green apple and pears, jasmine blossoms, and even some citrus – along with some nutty notes and hints of lavender. Understated but elegant, and lovely alongside salade niçoise, betteraves, asparagus, moules au curry.
Glass $19, Bottle $84
Producer: Goisot
Grape: Aligoté
Region: Burgundy
Appellation: Saint-Bris
Vintage: 2022
Jean-Hugues Goisot was among Burgundy’s earliest practitioners of biodynamic viticulture, and today his son Guillaume maintains this arduous commitment. The family farms Sauvignon Blanc, Aligoté and Chardonnay in deep, chalky soils just a few kilometers east of Chablis.
According to many, Domaine Goisot should be known as a fine Chablis estate, but history has not been particularly kind to the region: Saint Bris was exiled from the Chablis appellation after phylloxera paralyzed the area in the late nineteenth century. Saint-Bris shares the same base of Kimmeridgian limestone and the same northerly climate as its neighbor a few kilometers to the east. But now Saint Bris is officially a sub-region of the Côte d’Auxerre, which is only officially entitled to Bourgogne status.
However, one of the delightful side effects of the switch is that the Goisots are allowed to grow Sauvignon Blanc and Aligoté, whereas in Chablis that is not permitted. In this way, Saint Bris is like a tiny combination of Sancerre and Chablis in one sleepy village.
In the bottle: From 6.3 hectares of vines on high, cool slopes. Vines age between 10 and 30+ years old. Soils are known as Barremien which is dense clay with fossilized oyster shells. The vines are farmed biodynamically and grapes are harvested by hand. The wine is fermented at cold temperatures in stainless steel vats using native yeasts. The wine is aged on its fine lees in stainless steel.
Notes: Very ‘chablisien’-like texture, meaning high acid, minerally, with a round and slightly creamy finish. Notes of lemon curd, chamomile, and crushed oyster shells. Such a fantastic value! Pair with oysters, anchoiade, brandade de morue.
Glass $16, Bottle $70
Producer: Domaine Oudin
Grape: Chardonnay
Region: Burgundy
Appellation: Chablis
Vintage: 2022
The Domaine Oudin plots are dotted around the village of Chichée, south of Chablis, on the banks of the river Serein. The vines are spread over the slopes and crests of the hills surrounding the village, at an altitude of approximately 150 metres and mostly enjoy southern or south-western exposure.
As wine quality drops when production rises, Oudin aims for a maximum yield of 60 hl/ha, which leaves no room for error. That means they usually harvest around 45 hl/ha, because any natural occurrence has a big impact on production. Oudin tends vineyards organically. They allow plant cover for biodiversity, use little fertilizer (organic only) and no weedkiller. Vines are 65 years old.
In the bottle: Grapes are hand harvested and gently pressed. Only natural yeasts are used and the wine is fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine rests on lees in tank for a year or more before it is bottled. Minimal sulfites are added.
Notes: Floral aromas, green apple and candied citrus on the palate, with the lean minimality Chablis is known for. Pair with dauphinois, eggs and caviar, tajine.
Glass $22, Bottle $98
Producer: Haut Bourg
Grape: Melon de Bourgogne
Cuvée: ‘Origine de Haut Bourg’
Region: Loire
Appellation: Muscadet Côtes de Grandlieu
Vintage: 2013
Located in the heart of the Muscadet appellation Côtes de Grandlieu, the Domaine du Haut Bourg was built by four generations of vignerons. The first vine was planted in 1945 and today brothers Hervé and Nicolas Choblet run their 40 hectares estate together.
The appellation, founded in 1994, benefits from the distinct microclimate created by the Lac de Grandlieu in the south, the Loire River to the north, and the Atlantic Ocean to the west. Being uniquely sandwiched between these three bodies of water creates a phenomenon whereby the Cotes de Grandlieu is often spared the storms that attack the Muscadet appellations of Sevre et Maine and Coteaux de la Loire. Additionally, low temperature differences between day and night allow for early harvest, which helps retain the generous acids typical of Muscadet.
The vineyard’s soils consist of mica schist, granite, along with sandy and sedimentary rocks. This combination lends a lovely texture and balance to the wines. Haut Bourg vines average 30 years of age, with some vines as old as 60 years old. These old vines are highly valued in providing structure and depth to the wines.
In the bottle: Grapes are vinified traditionally; must settles for 48 hours and then ferments with indigenous yeasts at a controlled temperature to accentuate aromas and freshness. All white wines spend time on their lees, resulting in just the right amount of texture and mouth-feel to accompany their vibrant acid structures.
In exceptional vintages, the Choblet brothers make a wine called Origine du Haut Bourg which is produced from the oldest "original" vines on the estate and is aged 7-10 years on the lees. This singular wine shows the amazing aging potential of the wines of Domaine du Haut Bourg.
Notes: If Premier Cru Chablis met old Riesling, this would be it. Saline, fresh, with a delicate ‘umami’-like savoriness on the mid-palate … though it never gets tiring due to the vibrant acidity. There is truly nothing like a Muscadet with age. Pair with anchoiade, pistou de noix, moules au curry.
Glass $18, Bottle $80